Ah, Aotearoa: The Other Land Down Under

Kiwis are famous for their "no worries" attitude and easy-going hospitality. But I found one way to get their dander up. Just suggest their homeland of New Zealand is a part of Australia.

It's an easy mistake. Both countries are part of the British Empire. Natives of both countries say "G'day, mate" and eat vegemite sandwiches. Both play rugby and cricket instead of football and baseball. Both are "down under." And, they look deceptively close on a world map, though actually 1,000 miles and two time zones away from each other.

Not to mention that Australia's a continent the size of Europe, while New Zealand (sometimes called by the more picturesque Maori name of  Aotearoa or "Land of the Long White Cloud") is an island country where no spot is more than 80 miles from the sea.

No wonder some Kiwis – as New Zealanders call themselves – have an inferiority complex.

There's no need, though. Sure, Australia is world-famous for its Great Barrier Reef, Outback, eucalyptus trees, kangaroos and koala bears. But New Zealand is one of the most diverse geographical areas in the world, with sandy beaches, snow-capped mountains and almost everything in between – all in a country that's smaller than California.

There are geysers and hot springs that rival ours in the western United States. Steep sheep pastures straight out of northern Scotland. Fiords that would be at home in Norway. Rain forests that get 35 feet – that's feet, not inches – of precipitation a year. There are mountains. Glaciers. Caves. Coral reefs. Active volcanoes. And more coastline than the entire continental United States.

It's also one of the last places discovered by man. The first Polynesian islanders didn't arrive until about 900 A.D., and it was only in 1840 that New Zealand became a part of the British Empire. Because of this, many areas remain unspoiled.

Of course, New Zealand has its share of cities and modern problems: crime, clear-cut forests, traffic jams, skyscrapers, malls and McDonald's.

With almost a million inhabitants, Auckland contains one-third of the country's total population and is its cultural center. Next in size, with about 300,000 people each, are Christchurch – said to be the most English-looking city outside of England – and Wellington, the nation's bustling capital and site of one of the world's most scenic harbors.

Each has its attractions, but it's outside the urban areas where New Zealand really shines. Every step, it seems, is another postcard. There's so much spectacular scenery, it becomes almost commonplace. From whitewater rafting to trout fishing, bungee jumping to whale watching, there's an endless list of outdoor activities and adventure sports to try. And if you're used to the bumper-to-bumper overcrowding of America's national parks, you'll delight in the relative emptiness of the Kiwi "bush."

Fiordland, the country's largest national park, is almost the size of Yellowstone National Park, yet contains no roads. It's a rugged, pristine landscape, accessible only by boat or hiking trail. The land – some of it not fully explored yet – remains largely unchanged since New Zealand first broke off the huge supercontinent of Godwanaland 150 million years ago.

The biggest problem in traveling to New Zealand is finding enough time – and money – to see it all. For most American tourists we met, it was a side trip from Australia and Asia. Once there, they regretted they didn't have more than a few days to explore it.

I had two months and still didn't see or do everything I wanted. But that's OK. It just means I'll have to go back to the "other" land down under someday. No worries, mate!

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AUTHOR'S NOTE: Back in 1995, I took a sabbatical from my job as a writer and editor with the La Crosse Tribune to head down south (WAY down south) on a three-month trip to Australia and New Zealand. I turned in this report when I got back. Thanks to my then-boss Tom Kelley for holding my job for me while I was gone! –Starling

ABOUT THE AUTHOR
​Born in a small Wisconsin blue-collar town, Mike Starling ditched the assembly line for a long, sometimes circuitous career working with words, sound and images. His original music is heard on numerous recordings and soundtracks, and his stories and photos have been featured in books, films, mags and other media. Among his other interesting career moves, he has edited a beer magazine, played bass in a reggae band and sold potato chips door-to-door. Inspired by the life-altering events of 2020, he launched a year-long web-based project called I Remember Travel in January 2021.

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