Ah, Aotearoa: The Other Land Down Under
Story by Mike Starling | La Crosse Tribune, February 19, 1995
Kiwis are famous for their "no worries" attitude and easy-going hospitality. But I found one way to get their dander up. Just suggest their homeland of New Zealand is a part of Australia.
It's an easy mistake. Both countries are part of the British Empire. Natives of both countries say "G'day, mate" and eat vegemite sandwiches. Both play rugby and cricket instead of football and baseball. Both are "down under." And, they look deceptively close on a world map, though actually 1,000 miles and two time zones away from each other.
Not to mention that Australia's a continent the size of Europe, while New Zealand (sometimes called by the more picturesque Maori name of Aotearoa or "Land of the Long White Cloud") is an island country where no spot is more than 80 miles from the sea.
No wonder some Kiwis – as New Zealanders call themselves – have an inferiority complex.
There's no need, though. Sure, Australia is world-famous for its Great Barrier Reef, Outback, eucalyptus trees, kangaroos and koala bears. But New Zealand is one of the most diverse geographical areas in the world, with sandy beaches, snow-capped mountains and almost everything in between – al in a country that's smaller than California.
There are geysers and hot springs that rival ours in the western United States. Steep sheep pastures straight out of northern Scotland. Fiords that would be at home in Norway. Rain forests that get 35 feet – that's feet, not inches – of precipitation a year. There are mountains. Glaciers. Caves. Coral reefs. Active volcanoes. And more coastline than the entire continental United States.
It's also one of the last places discovered by man. The first Polynesian islanders didn't arrive until about 900 A.D., and it was only in 1840 that New Zealand became a part of the British Empire. Because of this, many areas remain unspoiled.
Of course, New Zealand has its share of cities and modern problems: crime, clear-cut forests, traffic jams, skyscrapers, malls and McDonald's.
With almost a million inhabitants, Auckland contains one-third of the country's total population and is its cultural center. Next in size, with about 300,000 people each, are Christchurch – said to be the most English-looking city outside of England – and Wellington, the nation's bustling capital and site of one of the world's most scenic harbors.
Each has its attractions, but it's outside the urban areas where New Zealand really shines. Every step, it seems, is another postcard. There's so much spectacular scenery, it becomes almost commonplace. From whitewater rafting to trout fishing, bungee jumping to whale watching, there's an endless list of outdoor activities and adventure sports to try. And if you're used to the bumper-to-bumper overcrowding of America's national parks, you'll delight in the relative emptiness of the Kiwi "bush."
Fiordland, the country's largest national park, is almost the size of Yellowstone National Park, yet contains no roads. It's a rugged, pristine landscape, accessible only by boat or hiking trail. The land – some of it not fully explored yet – remains largely unchanged since New Zealand first broke off the huge supercontinent of Godwanaland 150 million years ago.
The biggest problem in traveling to New Zealand is finding enough time – and money – to see it all. For most American tourists we met, it was a side trip from Australia and Asia. Once there, they regretted they didn't have more than a few days to explore it.
I had two months and still didn't see or do everything I wanted. But that's OK. It just means I'll have to go back to the "other" land down under someday. No worries, mate!
EDITOR'S NOTE: Plenty has changed for the North and South islands of New Zealand since this story was originally published in 1995. The Lord of the Rings movie series, for one, has had a big impact on tourism and overall perception of the country.
RELATED STORY: My Top 10 Things to See and Experience in New Zealand
It's an easy mistake. Both countries are part of the British Empire. Natives of both countries say "G'day, mate" and eat vegemite sandwiches. Both play rugby and cricket instead of football and baseball. Both are "down under." And, they look deceptively close on a world map, though actually 1,000 miles and two time zones away from each other.
Not to mention that Australia's a continent the size of Europe, while New Zealand (sometimes called by the more picturesque Maori name of Aotearoa or "Land of the Long White Cloud") is an island country where no spot is more than 80 miles from the sea.
No wonder some Kiwis – as New Zealanders call themselves – have an inferiority complex.
There's no need, though. Sure, Australia is world-famous for its Great Barrier Reef, Outback, eucalyptus trees, kangaroos and koala bears. But New Zealand is one of the most diverse geographical areas in the world, with sandy beaches, snow-capped mountains and almost everything in between – al in a country that's smaller than California.
There are geysers and hot springs that rival ours in the western United States. Steep sheep pastures straight out of northern Scotland. Fiords that would be at home in Norway. Rain forests that get 35 feet – that's feet, not inches – of precipitation a year. There are mountains. Glaciers. Caves. Coral reefs. Active volcanoes. And more coastline than the entire continental United States.
It's also one of the last places discovered by man. The first Polynesian islanders didn't arrive until about 900 A.D., and it was only in 1840 that New Zealand became a part of the British Empire. Because of this, many areas remain unspoiled.
Of course, New Zealand has its share of cities and modern problems: crime, clear-cut forests, traffic jams, skyscrapers, malls and McDonald's.
With almost a million inhabitants, Auckland contains one-third of the country's total population and is its cultural center. Next in size, with about 300,000 people each, are Christchurch – said to be the most English-looking city outside of England – and Wellington, the nation's bustling capital and site of one of the world's most scenic harbors.
Each has its attractions, but it's outside the urban areas where New Zealand really shines. Every step, it seems, is another postcard. There's so much spectacular scenery, it becomes almost commonplace. From whitewater rafting to trout fishing, bungee jumping to whale watching, there's an endless list of outdoor activities and adventure sports to try. And if you're used to the bumper-to-bumper overcrowding of America's national parks, you'll delight in the relative emptiness of the Kiwi "bush."
Fiordland, the country's largest national park, is almost the size of Yellowstone National Park, yet contains no roads. It's a rugged, pristine landscape, accessible only by boat or hiking trail. The land – some of it not fully explored yet – remains largely unchanged since New Zealand first broke off the huge supercontinent of Godwanaland 150 million years ago.
The biggest problem in traveling to New Zealand is finding enough time – and money – to see it all. For most American tourists we met, it was a side trip from Australia and Asia. Once there, they regretted they didn't have more than a few days to explore it.
I had two months and still didn't see or do everything I wanted. But that's OK. It just means I'll have to go back to the "other" land down under someday. No worries, mate!
EDITOR'S NOTE: Plenty has changed for the North and South islands of New Zealand since this story was originally published in 1995. The Lord of the Rings movie series, for one, has had a big impact on tourism and overall perception of the country.
RELATED STORY: My Top 10 Things to See and Experience in New Zealand
Mike Starling's original music is heard on numerous recordings and soundtracks, and his stories and photos have been featured in books, films, mags and other media.
starlingarchive.weebly.com is the authorized website for samples of published work by the Wisconsin-based writer, artist and musician Mike Starling. Photo of Starling on assignment in Ireland by J. Winke. Mount Cook, New Zealand photo by David Briody. Posted via a creative commons license from the Wikimedia Commons. Website developed and managed by Nine Volt Media. ©MMXX-MMXXIII. All rights reserved.